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02 October 2008
Here you will find some solutions for problems I've had in the past - hope this section will help you as well.
- Warning lights
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I have implemented a circuit with the following function:
using the tail lamp, fitted with a double filament bulb, for
- rear light
- brake light
- indicator light
- warning light
The trafficators will be switch off, if the warning lights is in use. This will prevent the trafficator coil for too much current.
The indication light has priority to the brake light.
More info will follow later
- leather hide
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If you plan to rebuild the complete leather interior, you need approximately three (3) leather hides.
- Corner glass
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I plan to reproduce the corner glas for the A90 Atlantic, if someone is interested, please send me a note. As usal, the more people like to order a pair, the better the price - I hope....
- 12V Positive earth
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If you plan to switch the 12 negative earth system of the Austin A90 Atlantic to positive earth - no problem, please ask for introduction.
- My A90 Atlantic color
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The color I used is
Neoplan Kruppa Tuerkis 60156.
It is a 2 component paint.
- Gadget for the A90
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I will use 3M DualLock for the rear seats to get them in position, therefore I don't need any screws or hooks.
- Replace the hydraulic window lifter
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If you don't have the hydraulic stuff for the windows lifter and no pipes are available on your A90 Atlantic, you could use a electronic actuator.
After some investigation I've found the right actuator.
At the moment I'm doing all the work, I will document the procedure how to install this actuator.
Update 1:
First you have to find out how much force you need to lift the window. I have actually two different types and this result in different speed. The more power the slower. The actuator can be run between 6V and 24V. To get 24V I installed a Notebook car DC-DC Converter. The actuator needs maximum 2A - so no problem to find one.
- Brake Switch
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At the moment I have the original mechanical brake switch under my car, but I plan to replace this one with a hydraulic one.
I have no room to put a hydraulic switch on the master brake cylinder, the chassis is very close to the brake master cylinder.
Therefore I will replace the 3 way connector (top left in the picture above near the front shock absorber) on the right side with a 4 way connector and put the hydraulic switch over there. This means I have to bleed the system once more...
I'm not sure but I think the thread is 3/8"-24 UNF, but it could be also 3/8"-24 BSF